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Mon
27
Aug '07

Replacing the air filter

As part of routine maintenance, the air cleaner must be checked or replaced every 12,000 miles. To change the air filter, allow yourself an afternoon of time because this will take about 3 1/2 hours and will take some mechanical skill. So if you are not handy, you should leave this to your Honda dealer. With the technical disclaimer out of the way, lets get to this. Instead of changing to a new paper filter, I went with a K&N Air Filter. Just remember you still need to maintain the filter on a regular basis.

Tools needed:

  • #2 Phillips head screwdriver
  • Flat-head screwdriver
  • Needle-nosed pliers
  • 10 mm socket and ratchet
  • 5mm hex wrench

Previous steps:

The first steps of getting to the air filter require you to remove several body panels:

Once you have removed the top shelter remove the

  • Shelter inner covers
  • Intake air duct (these are held in place by one screw each)
  1. Release the boot clamp and the wire band.
  2. Disconnect the cruise actuator connector.
  3. Remove the screw and BARO sensor.
  4. Remove the engine control module (ECM) and ABS control module (if equipped).
  5. Disconnect the wire connectors from the ECM

    Remove the ECM

    Disconnect the connector from the cruise control module

  6. Disconnect the IAT sensor connector.
  7. Remove the four bolts for the control module holder.
  8. Remove four bolts

  9. Loosen the seven screws and remove the air cleaner cover.
  10. Loosen seven screws and remove cover

  11. When you have the cover off, make sure that you clean out any debris from the housing.

Old air filter

New K&N filter

Install K&N air filter warning sticker

Air filter housing removed

Now that this is done, it is time to reassemble the bike. It is the opposite of disassembly. As you reassemble, take the time to check fuel lines for cracks, and rubbing points. Also be careful to make sure that you route the wire harnesses where they won’t be pinched or broken.

Mon
27
Aug '07

Meter Panel Removal

Tools Needed:

  • Plastic knife
  • #2 Phillips head screwdriver
  1. Gently pry cover from around ignition switch. A plastic knife can help you to get under the cover without scratching or damaging anything.
  2. There are 2 tabs and 2 grommets that hold the meter panel in place. the tabs are located on either side of the handlebar openings. These tabs are located near the corner where the top shelter meets the meter panel. The grommets are located near the ignition switch towards the seat. First, release the 2 tabs, then pull free from the grommets. A screwdriver for leverage may help here.
  3. Once loose, disconnect the speakers. However, I have found that some operations that I need to remove the meter panel for, I only need the meter panel loose, which means that I can leave the speakers hooked-up, but just slightly move the meter panel to the side.

Installation is just the opposite.

Mon
27
Aug '07

Seat removal

There are many times that you’ll need to remove the seat from the bike, for various maintenance operations or to add accessories to the bike.

Tools Needed:

  • 6 mm Allen wrench
  1. There are 2 bolts on either side of the seat in the hand-holds. Unbolt these.
  2. Gl1800 seat handle

    Remove 2 allen-head bolts from each seat handle

  3. Then pull the lower portion of the rider seat-back forward, and shift the seat towards the rear. Lift the seat, and be aware of the wire harness leading to the seat if you have a seat heater. Don’t pull the seat to hard, you will have about 12 inches of room to disconnect the harness.
  4. GL1800 seat heater plug location

    Lift the seat slightly, and disconnect the seat heater plug

    GL1800 seat heater plug

    Close-up of the seat heater plug

When reinstalling the seat, remember to plug-in the wire harness to the seat. Then reinstall the seat, with the nose first, making sure that you slide the tabs under the the top shelter. When reinstalling the seat bolts, sometimes the rubber bushings behind the seat, need to be realigned. Make sure that you torque down the bolts, tight. These bolts are responsible for assisting you to putting the bike on its center stand.

Mon
27
Aug '07

Top Shelter Removal

To perform most of the basic maintenance, the top shelter needs to be removed. To view larger images, just click the image.

Previous steps:

Tools needed:

  • Needle-nose pliers
  • 5 mm Allen wrench
  • #2 Phillips head screwdriver
  • 13 mm wrench
  1. Inside the pocket openings, there are panel switch connectors (1 in each pocket). Disconnect these. In the left opening, there is the foot warmer ventilation switch cable that you need to remove. I use needle-nose pliers to maneuver this cable to disconnect.
  2. Right side wire connector

    Right side wire connector


    Left side wire connector

    Left side wire connector


    Left side foot warmer control

    Left side foot warmer control

  3. Then remove the 12 screws that hold the top shelter in place. There are 3 different sized screws: six 6 x 14 mm, four 5 x 12 mm, & two 5 x 19 mm. Pay attention to where each of the sized screws go. Eight of the screws are under the trim pieces that you removed in the side pocket removal steps. the other 4 screws are along the top of the top shelter.
  4. Right side top bolt locations

    Right side top bolt locations


    Left side top bolt locations

    Left side top bolt locations

  5. Remove the two phillips head setting screws from around the ignition switch.
  6. Remove the nut from each side of the top shelter (found under the side cover).
  7. Release the top shelter off the studs from where you just removed the nuts.
  8. Raise the top shelter gently and disconnect the antenna connector and the harness to the audio unit.
  9. Antenna connection

    Antenna connection

  10. Then you can place the top shelter aside.

This is what it looks like under the top shelter.

Under the top shelter

Under the top shelter

Installation is the reverse of the removal process.

Mon
27
Aug '07

Pocket removal

The first step to perform any maintenance to many parts of the the bike is to remove the pockets on either side of the dash. To see larger images just click image.

Tools needed:

  • #2 Phillips head screwdriver
  • Plastic knife
  • Needle-nose pliers
  1. First step is to remove the trim strips on each side of the bike.
  2. Left Pocket

    Left Pocket

    Right Pocket

    Right Pocket

  3. It is easiest to start at the bottom, from the inside edge. I used my fingernail to lift the edge, and gently lifted the trim. You don’t want to use a screwdriver because it could scratch the paint. If you can’t use your fingernail, use a plastic knife.
    Left pocket with trim removed

    Left pocket with trim removed

    Right pocket with trim removed

    Right pocket with trim removed

     

     

  4. Then open the pocket and you’ll find 2 screws and 2 plastic trim tabs on the right side, and 4 plastic trim tabs on the left side. To remove the trim tabs, depress the center, and then remove the tabs. Be careful not to loose the tabs, they are hard to find if you drop them into the bike, and it ruins your day to have to buy more (if you can find some to buy). Then lift out the pocket. On the right side, the release cable will limit your movement, but you can undo this easily, I recommend using a pair of needle-nose pliers for this. On the left side, you will have the auxiliary sound input and power port (if installed) that you will need to disconnect.
    Left side pocket holding tabs

    Left side pocket holding tabs

    Right side pocket holding tabs

    Right side pocket holding tabs

     

     

  5. Left side pocket removed

    Left side pocket removed

    Audio and power port connectors in the left pocket

    Audio and power port connectors in the left pocket

    Right side pocket removed

    Right side pocket removed

     

     


4. Reinstallation is just the opposite.